I just recently got into using a bike for commuting and I was wondering if this is a good way to secure my bike? I know, previously, people would recommend only needing to lock the back tire to a solid object, but I’ve seen videos of people easily cutting the back tire, breaking it and taking the frame/front tire. My method of locking is sort of similar, except I do lock around the splash guard. If this isn’t very secure, I’d have to get a longer ulock or chain, because there doesn’t appear to be an easy way for me to lock around the back tire, frame and solid object with my current ulock. Any suggestions are appreciated.

  • gasgiant@lemmy.ml
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    1 year ago

    The front wheel is correct but I would move the D lock at the back. It is only round a wheel and a mudguard.

    Your current method means the frame could be stolen by undoing the wheel bolts and lifting away. Can’t see exactly how the mudguards are fixed and they might complicate it a bit but not much.

    I’d suggest low on the seat tube just above the chain ring and then loop the cable round the front and back wheels and into the D lock.

    Edit: forgot. Don’t bother looping up through the seat like that. If they want to steal that with the cable there it’s only two bolts. It’s only one without the cable but if you were still worried you can get security seatpost bolts

    • originalfrozenbanana@lemm.ee
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      1 year ago

      I was always taught to lock around the wheel, frame, and whatever you’re locking to. Just two points leaves something vulnerable

    • DrMoronicAcid@lemmy.world
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      1 year ago

      I second the part about not bothering looping up through the saddle. It would also give a bit more play with the cable allowing the D lock to be moved to a better position.

      • gasgiant@lemmy.ml
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        1 year ago

        Should have said, unbolt and damage the wheels then lift away.

        Which could be done with a spanner and by standing on the back wheel to squash it to an oval and push it through.

        So then you’re buying a hardened D lock and making it as strong as an aluminium and rubber wheel. If they have very basic cutters they are through both wheels in seconds and can lift the bike away. Leaving the lock intact on the bar.

        No point in having a hardened lock if it is going to be used like this. Just buy a bargain basement long cable lock as all the benefits of the hardened D are being removed.

        • merde alors@sh.itjust.works
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          1 year ago

          very basic cutters that cut through both wheels in seconds

          i would like to see that.

          Are you writing from some experience or is this theoritical?

          • gasgiant@lemmy.ml
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            1 year ago

            Never seen anyone actually doing it but have seen the results. If they are serious bike thieves they will take as much as they can as quickly as they can.

            They’ll make a quick assessment. I can get all of a bike apart from the wheels quickly with very little noise vs spending the time dealing with the hardened lock. They will go for the quicker and quieter option.

    • Habahnow@sh.itjust.worksOP
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      1 year ago

      I’m sorry I don’t understand, why is looping the cable through the seat a bad idea? Cable lock isn’t much, I agree, but i figure it at least stops someone with just an Alan wrench from taking my seat post, and would also need a cable lock cutter.

      • gasgiant@lemmy.ml
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        1 year ago

        They don’t need cable cutters. They can just undo one of the bolts holding the seat together, pull the cable out and then undo the seat post bolt to remove the seat. So all you’ve really done is have them undo an extra bolt. No need to cut the cable.

        Keep more cable for securing both wheels and D lock frame to post. If they’re really bothered about the seat get a security seat post bolt.