I’ve been in the industry for over a decade. I have owned or handled countless devices in that time. However for some reason I’ve never had a FW in my personal collection. I really should change that haha.

The last FW I handled in fact was the Firewood4 way back in 2014/15-ish (anyone know Mephisto over on FuckCombustion? It was his - he’s an awesome guy)

Ever check out the Lotus vaporizer? It’s a convection vaporizer which is unlike most other vapes on the market (and very different from the vapcap). Basically you heat a plate while drawing air over the plate - this is a forced convection heating. The faster you draw and move the torch, the more uniform your extraction. From a cold start, I can completely extract everything in a single rip, or temp step and play with the temps by adjusting draw speeds, etc.

It’s a very analogue device. But it’s so easy to combust (if you leave the torch heating one spot too long) so I NEVER shared mine with friends.

Indeed I have both in my collection! (well, the original Crafty and Mighty, but the + doesn’t really change the performance aside from extended battery life and new USB-C charger plugs)

The Crafty and Mighty use a proprietary “cooling unit” which is basically a fancy maze for the vapor between the oven and your lips. The Crafty has a smaller cooling unit than the Mighty (they’re both the same height, but the Mighty is wider for more diffusion). They both yield a very smooth draw compared to other portables - the mighty is smoother than the crafty thanks to the larger cooling unit.

In terms of the smoothest dry rip you can get, absolutely they are awesome out of the box with zero mods. They also have very low draw restriction. Imagine sucking air through a tiny coffee stir straw verses sucking air through a large jumbo milkshake straw. You’ll almost think there’s an air leak the first time you hit the Mighty or Crafty because there is MUCH less draw restriction compared to other vaporizers (the Xmax V3 Pro has moderate draw restriction - not the worst in the industry but pretty restricted).

Now on to some of the cons:

• The cooling unit is plastic and does collect honey over time. This tarnishes the flavor of the vapor. If you are a flavor chasing snob, you might be disappointed in the flavor profile of the Crafty/Mighty. Some people buy spare cooling units and keep them cleaned to swap out as needed.

• The dosing capsules are terrible. I much prefer the dosing capsules which fit the Xmax V3 pro. The S&B dosing capsules are very thin metal and can be difficult to pop open after they get dirty from use. They are cheaper per unit, but they bend easily. The only good thing is that the S&B dosing capsules work for every vaporizer they sell - from the large volcano (with a special reducing ring spacer) to the Crafty.

• The battery is internal on the device. It can be replaced with a bit of hassle, but it’s not the most easy. They use 18650 battery cells, but S&B attaches a temperature sensor to each battery cell so the software can monitor battery health (the unit will shut down if you’re running multiple sessions back to back and the battery starts to over-heat - it’s a fail safe to extend battery life and prevent failure of the unit). Normally S&B wants you to mail back your device for battery replacements when needed which is dumb for many reasons lol. I understand why they have sealed internal batteries, but I much prefer removable batteries like the Xmax V3 Pro

Overall back when they first came out, I opted to get a Crafty because it is much more pocket friendly (the Mighty fills my whole pocket making it less pocket friendly when I’m carrying a wallet and phone), and the smaller cooling unit meant that I still got smooth rips, but they were still a bit more harsh and enjoyable than the Mighty. Plus the Crafty has no display screen meaning it was more stealthy to use out and about, the Mighty is a much larger device with a big glowing display screen making it less stealthy.

Note I have heard multiple complaints about the USB-C charging port on the Mighty+. It seems people much preferred the 12vdc barrel connector on the original Mighty. I don’t know if the Crafty+ also suffers from the same issue or if it’s not a big issue due to it’s placement on the control board?

Like I said, I know more than most people should about these devices hahaha - feel free to continue asking away any comparisons between devices. I’m happy to help :-)

The Xmax v3 Pro is no slouch - it’s a great budget-friend portable.

Most devices performs differently - some cook faster, some taste better, some are easier to clean, smoother vapor, faster extraction etc. There are so many fun upgrades out there so it really depends on which direction you wanna go - desktop, butane, higher powered portable, etc.

I have handled countless devices so by all means feel free to ask me how they’d compare to the Xmax v3 pro and I’ll be happy to give you some un-biased opinions of the pros/cons of any upgrade.

Note - faster extraction and “Cloud chasing” isn’t always more beneficial. Sometimes it’s good to change your regular device once or twice a year to help reset your tolerances. It’s mainly psychological - the use of a device becomes habitual - running temps, loading sizes, draw patterns, etc. This is called "vape tolerance. So even if you get a super high powered device, don’t toss your Xmax - it’ll still be beneficial once or twice a year to cycle through your devices.

I left vaporents back during the boycott. Now I’m here to dispense knowledge for novice users.

I actually see a lot of vaporizer posts in the /m/trees group which makes me happy haha

But yeah I’d love to see more ents on vaporents. Maybe some day!

If you really want one, I have a Splinter that I never used - bought it and literally never fired up lol. I might be willing to let it go for the right price - message me :-)

Yeah I dunno - mine worked great for years. But I stopped using it and now the carb isn’t moving. It’s probably gunked up or something.

I hang onto mine because it’s an OG Omni that I scored for less than $100, so I can’t complain.

I mean I can’t comment on modern Omni’s. I still have a first-gen Omnivap and I feel like it still hits nice.

The only real reason to upgrade to the omni (in my book) aside from the titanium body, is the fact that it has an adjustable carb piece so you can customize your optimal heat/air ratio without constantly fiddling with the air intake hole.

Although I’ll admit - I need to disassemble and clean my old omni - it’s not moving the carb adjustment piece the way it should anymore.

In recreational states, prices can be all over the place, as can quality. I’ve had experiences in Vegas where I tried to use shake I got out of a cheap $10 preroll from a dispensary and vaporize it only to get zero vapor - I literally thought I had broke my vaporizer until I tried some high quality flower and got vapor.

Turns out the dispensary was making concentrate from dry flower, and then using the leftover shake (after extraction) to sell as pre-rolls, despite having essentially no THC left to vape. That should be illegal.

Anyway back to your question - different strains will produce different amounts of vapor depending on your device, temperature used, and quality of the herb. Low grade herb will produce minimal vapor and you’ll need to cook a lot of it to get where you want to go. High grade herb will produce a ton of vapor at your preferred temp for that strain (Sativas cook best at lower temps, Indicas cook need higher temps, hybrids can be fun to customize your experience based on the temp used for extraction - different temps release different medical benefits from the flower).

What kind of vaporizer did you get? Some vaporizers are more “flexible” with load sizes - while others require a fully filled oven for optimal conduction of temperature and extraction.

I know an older gentleman who rips 0.015g of high grade herb twice a day through a massive desktop plugin vaporizer to get him where he wants to go. He may pay top $$ for that herb, but one single gram also lasts him a whole MONTH of medicating. Not all dry herbal devices work the same or perform the same - some are MUCH more powerful than others.

Last year I myself went six months with half an ounce while partaking almost daily.

Around 15 years ago, I learned about dry vaporizing, but I never gave it a try. A year later, I bought a cheap knockoff vaporizer from a local smoke shop, and it turned out to be terrible. Funny enough, I recently dug it out and found it still sucks (laughs).

Then, about a decade ago, a friend introduced me to the Pax1 vaporizer, and I was blown away. It was a game changer—a portable, handheld device for dry herb vaporization. From that point on, I was hooked. I started with a Davinci Ascent, created aftermarket accessories for it, and eventually founded Delta3DStudios. Now I get to play around with various dry herb vaporizers and come up with ways to improve them or make them more user-friendly.

Transitioning from smoking to dry vaporizing can be challenging for some. Many heavy smokers claim that dry herb vaporizing doesn’t give them the same “hit.” The truth is, their bodies are used to the effects of a toxic mix of carcinogens and carbon monoxide. Fortunately, I had an easier transition. My partner didn’t allow smoking indoors, but they let me vaporize indoors during one cold winter. I quickly adapted to the vaporizer, and it had a positive impact on my health, which I hadn’t anticipated. First, my sense of smell returned with a vengeance. I didn’t realize how much smoking had affected it. Additionally, as someone who frequents the gym, I noticed an increase in endurance and lung capacity. My lungs felt lighter. This is just my personal experience, but the difference between smoking and vaporizing was incredible.

At this point, I’ve handled countless vaporizers, and I’ve lost count of how many devices (working, dead, broken, etc.) I have in my collection (which I use to test new accessories for the market, haha).

Here are some tips from one enthusiast to another:

• Different temperatures extract different active compounds from the herb. Low temperatures work best for sativa strains, while higher temperatures are better for indica and CBD strains. You can vape a hybrid strain at low temperatures to extract the sativa side and at high temperatures to extract both sides. You can also start at a low temperature for one session and then increase the temperature for the next session.

• Every device performs differently. Some are stealthier, some heat up faster, some produce larger clouds, some provide tastier vapor, and some are easier to clean, among other differences. There is no such thing as a “perfect” device for everyone in every situation. I use different devices depending on my mood, location, and whether I have guests. Some of my favorite butane-powered devices are not meant for sharing because they’re prone to combustion, which affects the flavor of subsequent sessions.

• It’s not recommended to reheat the herb at the same temperature, but you can have one session at a lower temperature and then increase the temperature by 20 degrees Fahrenheit or more for each subsequent session.

• Don’t jump straight to the maximum temperature, especially with portable vaporizers. Enjoy the journey. Start at a low temperature, around 300 degrees Fahrenheit, and gradually increase it by 10-20 degrees every few minutes.

• Temperature sensors usually monitor the heater’s temperature, not the core temperature of your herb. If you take hard or fast draws with many devices, you might cool down the heater faster than it can recover the temperature. Depending on the device, try slowing down your draw. I recommend a draw speed of 15-20 seconds to slowly fill your lungs. Of course, high-powered desktop devices may allow for harder draws, but I’m speaking generally.

• Many portable vaporizers have underpowered heaters due to size constraints and power limitations imposed by lithium power cells. It takes some time for a portable device to reach optimal extraction temperatures. Therefore, it’s especially important to start at a low temperature, like 300 degrees Fahrenheit, for the first 1-2 minutes before increasing it to your desired level. This helps the device “preheat,” allowing it to adjust the temperature faster when you start taking longer draws at higher temperatures.

• With regular use, people often build up a tolerance to their usual device. Load sizes, temperature settings, draw patterns, and more become habitual. By switching devices once or twice a year, you can “reset” these tolerances. It doesn’t have to be an upgrade to a more powerful device. Sometimes, switching to a weaker, budget-friendly device can help reset your body’s tolerance. I do it often to avoid overmedicating. So, don’t throw away your old devices—cycle through them from time to time!

• Vaporbonging is another fun way to enjoy vaporizers when pairing them with glass. However, keep two things in mind: Firstly, you don’t need excessive filtration. Conditioning the vapor with moisture is enough; massive percolators and multiple water chambers can strip the vapor of its flavor (which can be useful when vaping unpleasant-tasting hash, for example). Secondly, while cold glass and ice may be enjoyable for smoking, they cause vapor particles to condense into larger particles, resulting in more throat irritation. Therefore, when vaporbonging, use warm or hot water in the glass pipe instead of cold water and ice.

I could talk endlessly about this topic—I spend way too much time experimenting with and studying these devices and the wonders of this plant. Feel free to ask anything you’d like. I no longer contribute to Reddit, so I’m happy to share my knowledge here!

I make budder using a sous vide with mine:

• 1/2 cup ABV
• One 4-ounce stick of butter (unsalted)
• 1/4 cup of water
• 1 tablespoon coconut oil

Seal in a bag. Set SousVide to 180F and submerge bag for 4 hours (depending on how you seal the bag - you might need to do a lower temp for longer)

I then pour the contents into a french press and strain into silicone butter molds. I toss that into the freezer to set up. After about an hour I crack open the silicone molds - the butter has solidified, but all the sediment and water settles to the bottom. So I gently crack open the molds and pour out this black-ish water (alternatively you can let it fully freeze as an ice cube at the bottom… then later pop it off as you thaw out the budder - either way works).

When baking with budder, I always stay at 325F and extend baking times by 25% to ensure the active compounds aren’t cooked out.

Although one of my favorites is rice krispy treats since they use a lot of budder. Careful though - they can be extremely sedative.